The flaps position system needs to sense the flaps position so I install a linear sensor.
First I fabricate a small bracket with some leftover aluminium. Here the bracket is already riveted in position.



The sensor is then screwed to the bracket. The sensing arm is at the lower right.



Then I use some parts that were part of the aileron trim and that are not used there to connect the sensor to a clamp on the flaps tube. The clamp will be replaced as it's not the correct size.
The part with the red mark will have to be slightly modified as there is some interference with the clevis.
After final assembly some adjustement can be made by moving the clamp or cutting some length from the rod.
On the picture the flaps are up, and the slider on sensor is completely out.



On this picture, the flaps are down and the slider on the sensor is retracted.



I also riveted the small bracket fabricated yesterday and bolted on the microswitch.

I will need the flaps position for two of my systems, so I need to fabricated the sensors' brackets.
I begin by reinstalling all the parts in the fuselage. Some washers are really interesting to get in place.
This is how it looks qith the flaps in the up position.



And the extended position.



The first sensor is a micro-switch that will tell the AoA system that the flaps have left the full up position.
This is a lever type micro-switch. The lever is actuated by the bolt on the cushion clamp (for the time the clamp is too small).
The system allows for some fine tunig by rotating the clamp, adjusting the length of the bolt or folding the lever.

I will modify the front wheel fork. The assembly of the front wheel is somewhat akward. The picture shows one of the mushrooms that will hold the wheel in position. Both mushrooms are held in position by torqueing the axle bolt.
The mushrooms are supposed to stay put as the wheel turns, but sometimes they begin to turn. This can induce some oscillations and shimmy.



I found all the informations on VansAirforce. One of the builders even asked Vans about the mod and they didn't object to it. The idea is to install a bolt on the fork that will hold the mushroom.
The only deviation from the informations on the website is that, as suggested by Vans, I'm using a smaller bolt (AN509-8R12).



Here the assembly is done. I only tapped the mushroom, to avoid any cracks in the fork.



Then it's priming time for the fork.



Then the fork is installed on the gear leg, for another special task. It's not possible to verify the torque of the big bolt with a torque wrench. So there is a small trick, it's done by using a small scale. The measure has to be taken a few times after the fork has been rotated a few times to each stop.



Once the correct value set, the gear leg is drilled for the cotter pin.



And now the wheel can be installed.

Today I begin by making the brakes lines going from the fusleage exit to the caliper. Nothing very difficult.



The lower part is routed around the wheel axle this will allow enough play as the caliper is moving during braking. Along the gear leg, the tubing is protected by small PVC hose parts. Some electric tape will hold everything inc position during final assembly.



Then I begin working on the front wheel, which was not completed. I take of the wheel and will also take off the fork as I intend to modify it slightly but I first have to do some research on that, so it will next time.



I also installed the engine mounts. The parts are the same but the assembly sequence is different between the upper and lower mounts. The compression points are not the same. It's visible by increasing the size of the picture (see the parts with the small yellow line).

I begun today by torquing all the bolts on or near the firewall (brake fluid reservoir, rudder pedals, battery mount...). Then I torqued the six bolts on the engine mount, on one I needeed to add a second washer so that the cotter pin actually prevents the bolt from turning.




I the use my hoist to lift the fuselage. Guillaume gives me a hand to install the gear legs, but it can be done alone.




After thirty minutes, the fuselage can be lowered on the wheels. It looks quute high, I will have to use some steps to climb on board for the time being.




As there is no engine for the time being, the center of gravity is way aft. So I have to keep the sawhorse in the back. I had to add a cardboard box to get the correct height. After the picture, I tied everything down with a rope.




The front gear lecg bolt is inserted from the cabine via a hole drilled earlier in the firewall.




That hole get a small cover that will also get some sealant to avoid fumes from the engine compartment entering the cabin.




And here the left gear leg having been torqued.

Before mounting all the available elements on the firewall, I first prime the heater box and the small headset jacks brackets.




ThenI bolt on the fixed part of the eyeballs.




Then I rivet the firewall recess and bolt the heater box. All this parts get sealed with my fire resistant seal which is not very easy to apply being very sticky.




I finish the session by reinstalling the battery and bolting the engine mount. Next operation will be to torque all the bolts and then put on the wheels.

There are some more holes to drill on the firewall, mainly for the engine controls : throttle and mixture. I use the Vans dimensions for carbureted engines.
The eyeballs are easy to install but a lot of holes have to be drilled, these is offset by the fact that this model can be installed by one person as the tightening is done from one side only. they were also quite cheap as I bought them during a special sale on some website.




The spherical part has to be drilled to the correct size. The picture shows the eyeball installed on the throttle for a test fitting.




Then I begin closing some gaps on the firewall, using 3M Firebarrier 2000 caulk. The caulk looks much like caulkd for the bathroom but seems a bit more sticky.
I close the hole near the brake fluid reservoir and the one near the gascolator.

Only one hour in the workshop today, it was enough to install the cabin heat valve. After some measuring I use the step bit to drill a 3/4" hole.




Then I use the 2,25" punch to make the bigger hole (it should be 2", but the tool is easy to use and the larger hole is of no consequences).




And the reseult after 30 seconds of work.




Then two holes were drilled for the mounting bolts, and the valve is installed.





And a picture from the cabin side, the lever is actuated via a cable.

The engine being here it's time to continue working on the firewall forward installation. The plans are a bit more vague, and my engine being different from what Vans sells I have to use the plans for the carbureted engine with minor variations.
I first install the manifold that will be used to measure oil and fule pressure, the castelated metal part on the right of the picture.
I also drill the firewall to install some platenuts that will hold various clamps needed for the all the hoses that will be installed later.

The engine has been delivered this morning after another speedy customs clearing by Schenker-Bax Global.
The (carboard) box is quite heavy but seems plenty strong.




Once the box open the engine is plastic wrapped and all the documents are in a nice black bag. The yellow tag says that the engine was bench tested on Oct, 17th.




At Mattituck, each engine is assembled by only one person whose signature is on the engine case.




Once the cardboard removed, we can see that the engine is bolted to the wooden floor. The two small boxes contain the hoses, the injection system and part of the ignition harness.




And, some happy builder.